Whitening agents in cosmetic
February 16, 2012At present, the concept of skin whitening has experienced a fundamental change. The physical cover whitening (such as powder, foundation, and increased white powder honey, etc.) in 1970 transforms to the restoring melanin physiological whitening. The use of biological agents and Chinese herbal medicine can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, prevent the formation of melanin, safely and effectively eliminate the physiological skin and develop the pigmentation whitening cosmetics. It will be an important area of beauty science in the 21st century.
Kojic acid fermentation of glucose or sucrose in the song enzyme, purified from its whitening astaxanthin mechanism of inhibition of tyrosinase activity, while inhibition of two hydroxy indole acid (DHICA) oxidase activity, blocking the two hydroxy indole (DHI) aggregate. This is rarely a single simultaneous inhibition of multiple enzymes whitening agent, a whitening agent is very worthy of study. Kojic acid due to light, heat and metal ion instability, and poor skin absorbency, people developed a number of kojic acid derivatives to improve the performance of its use. Kojic acid derivatives whitening mechanism of kojic acid, and the inhibition of tyrosinase activity more. Kojic acid derivatives compatibility with placental extract and use effect will be better.
VC is by the preparation of bio-fermentation, the people psychologically easy to accept whitening agents. VC had a marked effect after the removal of the nature of melanin deposition, and has antioxidant and free radical scavenging effect, mainly used in whitening cosmetics. However, due to water-soluble VC unstable and difficult to be absorbed through skin and other shortcomings, have been developed out of Vc fatty acid ester and Vc phosphates avoid these shortcomings. VC palmitate is a wide range of VC fatty acid ester, it is oil-soluble compound used in cosmetics are often associated with other whitening ingredients, in order to obtain stable and efficient whitening effect. VC phosphate salt VC phosphate magnesium salt and sodium salt of VC phosphate. Former whitening effect than the latter, the price is lower than the latter, the dominant Vc class whitening cosmetics market. Recently developed in Japan glucopyranosyl-L-dimensional C derivatives in the cosmetic emulsion is more stable, better compatibility with other whitening ingredients.
The arbutin including plant extracts, plant tissue culture, enzymatic and organic synthesis. Arbutin is a safe and effective whitening agent, the inhibition of its melanin and sun pigmentation effect. In different studies show that arbutin on tyrosinase inhibition of kojic acid 2 times and 10 times. To this end, to further improve the effectiveness of arbutin, the development of many new derivatives, which is noteworthy VC arbutin phosphate. It demonstrated the synergistic effect of Vc arbutin and has good stability. In order to enhance the effect of arbutin whitening agent tranexamic acid derivatives, aescin alcohol, aminoethyl compounds, tryptophan, and alkyl amino salicylic acid compound better.
Acid the main component is α-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, most present in the fruit (lemon, apple, grape, etc.), commonly known as acid. Acid penetrate to the stratum corneum of the skin, promote aging of the cuticle cells between the key work together to weaken, to accelerate the speed of cell renewal and promote the death of the cells from the other aspects to achieve the purpose of improving the skin condition, so that the skin surface smooth, delicate, luster. Most beauty products claiming to contain the acid compound, its use are often associated with other whitening component. Studies have shown that L-lactic acid on tyrosinase inhibition is superior to VC phosphate magnesium salt.
Chinese traditional medicine has good whitening effect. The prescription of the treatment of facial spots spread so far. Angelica: blood vitality, anti-bacterial anti-inflammatory, whitening of the cured water, containing a variety of vitamins and active component, the skin whitening efficacy. blood circulation, chills and pain, eliminate congestion, its chemical composition as the lactone, alkaloids, volatile oils and vitamins, with a skin anti-aging and tretinoin whitening effect. Salvia: cure all kinds of facial skin diseases, new stasis health, blood efficacy, its chemical composition is mainly ketones, alcohols, amino acids, vitamins and trace elements, it can eliminate free radicals, improve blood circulation. That the effect of anti-skin aging, beauty and whiteness. In addition, there is a certain white tuber, poria angelica, fresh skin, white peony root, atractylodes, rabbit wire the sub and other skin whitening effect.
The main reason of black skin is exogenous. Ultraviolet radiation can increase melanin foe skin. Oxygen free radicals can accelerate skin aging and make you look rough and dull. To have healthy white skin, first you need to prevent and reduce the exogenous factors which make the skin black or matte black. After your skin turn to black, it is not an easy task for your skin to become whitening. If there is an active ingredient which not only has the whitening effect but also can absorb a lot of ultraviolet light from the sun protection or scavenge free radicals, then the whitening agent embodies the concept of whole whitening. It is an important direction for development of whitening agents. Source:http://www.cosprm.comPosted by tracy ma.